Excuse Me, Do You Have Time To Talk About Our Lord And Saviour, Sake?
And a bit of Stoicism on the side
Happy Wednesday all,
Cheers to having a great week and whether you’re planning on drinking booze or not, something that goes well with any kind of drink is storytelling and different cultures. A culture I’m fascinated with is Japan.
The history, the food, the architecture and ESPECIALLY the drinks. So much so that it inspired me to become a sake sommelier and that’s what the theme of the newsletter is today.
Sake (called nihonshu) is a wonderfully versatile drink and has the power to cross cultures. Kanpai to some new knowledge, a bit of philosophy and some recommendations on bottles to buy from sake experts.
And if you think this newsletter is the kind that your mates would raise a glass too then feel free to share it with them and subscribe!
Exploring Sake Through The 4 Stoic Virtues
Practicing philosophy invites the opportunity to bring it into aspects of life that you may not have thought about initially. In my case, I’m interested in the philosophy of Stoicism and over the course of learning, it’s made me curious to see how it could be introduced into other topics I find intriguing.
It’s for that reason I’m exploring Stoicism through the lens of sake brewing and how the four Stoic principles of courage, wisdom, temperance and justice are embodied in the sake industry.
What is Stoicism?
Stoicism is a school of philosophy that originated in Ancient Greece and was founded by Zeno of Citium. Often misrepresented as the idea of being ‘emotionless’ and ‘indifferent’, Stoicism is a practice that can be utilised for self-improvement, active participation in the world and to become a better person through the relationships we build.
When applying Stoicism to alcohol, it’s important to think of how the ancient Stoics perceived drinking.
What did the ancient Stoics think of alcohol?
The Stoic approach to alcohol is multi-faceted and cognitive behavioural psychotherapist Donald Robertson has written a fantastic article on how the ancient Stoics viewed alcohol.
Robertson writes that “the Stoic wise man (or woman) views alcohol itself with studied indifference and focuses instead on the use he makes of it. Everything can be used either well or badly, according to the Stoics.
“So the wise man pays attention to the present moment and whether he is acting wisely or foolishly, with self-discipline or recklessness, in a healthy manner or an unhealthy one, and so on. To help ourselves make progress in this direction, we should actually set aside time to study how people we admire cope with temptation, trying to learn from their attitude and emulate their behaviour.”
What I interpret this to mean is that while Stoics like Marcus Aurelius generally tried to abstain from indulging in a lot of alcohol, they also viewed avoiding it at all costs to be unnecessary, if it became an all-consuming drive.
Other Stoics such as Seneca and even Cato The Younger were known to drink, with the latter using it as a social tool to be among other philosophers and to debate at dinner parties.
So, what matters to Stoics is how alcohol is used and it’s through this perspective that I think there’s a connection between the philosophy and sake brewing.
How does Stoicism relate to sake?
The Stoic principles of courage, wisdom, justice and temperance are relatable in the context of the sake industry and here’s why I think they matter:
Courage
When we think of courage, it’s the idea of being brave and being able to stand up with our convictions. The ancient Stoics were courageous in their approach to life, being active participants in the politics of Rome and this is a defining principle of many sake makers too.
Sake brewers have the courage and resilience to work long shifts during the sake production process. They have the bravery to move forward with the industry and a shining example of this is Senzaburo Miura, the man who invented the low temperature fermentation method that’s become synonymous with ginjo sake.
Active during the 1870s, Miura had been struggling to brew sake with soft water from the Akitsu area of Hiroshima. He understood that not all Hiroshima water was the same, as the water from Saijo had medium-hard water.
As Miura had travelled widely, he knew the difference between hard and soft water and so applied this knowledge to his sake and had the courage to change the industry forever.
It’s the spirit of innovation that Hiroshima breweries embody through the credo “try a hundred things and make a thousand improvements.” A clear tenet of Stoicism.
Wisdom
In a Stoic sense, wisdom is the virtue of knowing when to apply the other principles of courage, temperance and justice. It’s the ability to navigate the world and sake breweries convey wisdom across all aspects of producing nihonshu.
This is personified by the toji (master brewers), who must use their wisdom to harness the natural ingredients used for sake making. It’s also about knowing how to pass this knowledge on to a new generation of sake brewers and ensuring that the industry continues to evolve and survive.
Temperance
Temperance, or self-control, is another key Stoic principle that applies to how people regulate their emotions and approach different situations. Self-control is a huge part of the sake production process, as many variables need to be planned for and controlled.
An example of this occurs during the rice washing and soaking phase. Nihonshu brewers wield a stopwatch to see how long the rice is soaking for in order to get the timing just right.
On a larger scale, temperance is applied throughout the whole sake making process. Everyone involved must be patient and allow the water, yeast, koji and rice to work at a pace in which they are comfortable to produce something truly magical.
Justice
Arguably the most important Stoic virtue of all, justice is about doing the right thing. About living the kind of life that makes the world a better place and helping the people around us.
Justice is a vital principle in the sake industry, felt by the producers and those who work to get it into the hands of people all over the world. From a production perspective, sake breweries are focused on working in harmony with nature and keeping the environment strong.
From an import and export perspective, justice is making sure the hard work of the breweries is recognised. That interests are protected and that the industry is elevated in workshops, talks, webinars, shops and more.
Closing thoughts
From the tireless pursuit of good work to passing knowledge down to new generations, there are many similarities between the characteristics of Stoic philosophers and the traits of sake brewers.
And while people like Marcus Aurelius and Epictetus may never have been exposed to nihonshu, I like to think they would be able understand its merits as a social lubricant, bridge between worlds and a culture crosser for bringing new ideas to life.
A Recommendation Guide For First Time Sake Drinkers From 6 Industry Experts
Sake is a wonderful drink. Versatile, sessionable, complex and simple, all of these words sum up what sake is, even when it might sound contradictory. That’s the beauty of an industry that produces a range of styles suited to different palates.
Falling down the nihonshu rabbit hole can be a rewarding experience, as it provides a window into centuries of Japanese craftmanship. But before setting off on that journey, it’s natural to ask ‘where the hell am I meant to start?’ Good question.
If you’re thinking of trying sake for the first time, here’s a list that’s been put together from experts across the industry. With detailed tasting notes and a background of different breweries, you’ll come away with a deeper appreciation of Japan’s national drink.
Sake Matters’ Will Jarvis recommends Shusen junmai daiginjo:
Saijo is Hiroshima Prefecture’s “Sake Town”, consisting of eight breweries, all within staggering distance of each other, making for a very intense but enjoyable afternoon of tasting the area’s soft water sake.
Best of the lot is the famed Kamoizumi Brewery, founded in 1912, and its celebrated Shusen Junmai Ginjo. Made from local Hiroshima Hattan rice, milled to 58%.
First time drinkers expecting the characteristic delicate ginjo aromas and flavours of exotic fruits and banana will be taken aback a little by this more rustic and savoury experience but that’s the whole point of this sake, it’s a link to sakes past, an expression of how traditional sakes were made and enjoyed for hundreds of years.
Shusen is well structured with good body, creamy and buttery with a hint of raw pastry and apple pie. Best of all, experiment with temperature and enjoy this delicious sake warm or chilled. Great with grilled meats, game and hearty stews, will even stand up to a Sunday roast.
As the poem by a mid-Edo period Zen priest, Oshō Ryōkan, on the label says: “I was drunk because the sake you recommended was irresistible.”
Co-Founder of the UK’s first sake brewery Kanpai, Lucy Wilson, recommends SUMI:
Of our Kanpai sake, we’d recommend starting with SUMI. It’s the most traditional and ‘classic’ of our nihonshu. SUMI is a smooth, full-bodied tokubetstu junmai that is both fruity and savoury. Can be enjoyed with seafood, steak or smoky BBQ.
It’s very versatile so can be enjoyed chilled, warmed or in a cocktail.
Sommelier, podcast host and founder of Sugidama Blog, Alex Kirillov has two delicious nihonshu to recommend:
1. Dassai 45 Junmai Daiginjo
Dassai is one of the best-known sake brands outside Japan and a popular brand in the country itself. The brewery, which is actually called Asahi Shuzo (not to be confused with Asahi Shuzo, a producer of excellent Kubota sake and Asahi beer), makes only junmai daiginjo sake.
Dassai 45 is a successor of the popular Dassai 50. Dassai 45 is an all-rounder with a classic fruity junmai daiginjo aroma where you will notice banana, pear melon and other fruit notes. It has a balanced acidity and well measured sweetness.
It’s great on its own or with a wide variety of food: fish, chicken, vegetables or light meat dishes. I recommend Dassai 45 because it’s a classic junmai daiginjo sake at an affordable price.
However, depending on the budget you can go Dassai 39 or Dassai 23, which are even more refined and delicate.
2. Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai
Nanbu Bijin brewery is well known among sake aficionados, thanks to its charismatic president, Kosuke Kuji, who tirelessly promotes sake around the world and who was featured in a great documentary, Kampai!
Nanbu Bijin Tokubetsu Junmai is a rather refined junmai sake due to a higher polishing ratio. The sake is more aromatic than your usual junmai with strawberries, banana and pears flavours.
It’s medium dry sake with a clean finish and complex taste. It’s great at room temperature but you can drink it slightly chilled if you prefer.
The founder of Sorakami, Robin Sola, recommends the Dewazakura Oka (Cherry Bouquet) ginjo:
This ginjo sake from the Dewazakura brewery is extremely popular among consumers new to the delicious world of sake and it’s easy to understand why.
First, its price. Good quality Japanese sake comes at a premium outside of Japan and especially in the U.K. This is due to the low production volume from artisanal breweries and high cost of refrigerated transportation and storage. However, this bottle is of extremely high value. It was the very first affordable ginjo sake ever made in Japan. The Dewazakura brewery became popular in the 1980s for the release of the “Oka”, the first ginjo sake made available to the general public and reserved for tasting competition.
Secondly, it’s gorgeous aromas. On the nose, this sake offers a charming and inviting flowery bouquet. With a dry start, it is accompanied by a creamy mouthfeel that will let you enjoy its richly textured rice quality. The sake then finishes on a light and refreshing notes of pear and melon, exceptional characteristics of ginjo. It’s an easy drinking sake that is approachable and will ideally suit wine-drinkers.
Thirdly, its makers. The Dewazakura brewery was founded in 1892 by Seijiro Nakano in the city of Tendo in Yamagata prefecture. It’s now run by the 4th generation of the Nakano family, Mr Masumi Nakano.
The brewery is famous for democratising ginjo sakes in Japan with the release in 1980 of its “Oka” ginjo. It was the first affordable and readily available ginjo in the market. Since then, the people of Dewazakura have continued innovating. They perfected the cold storage technique, to best retain the aromas and flavours of sake until bottling in 1991. They also introduced the use of local Dewasansan rice in 1996, developing further the concept of terroir in the world of sake.
Finally, its birthplace. Yamagata prefecture is located in Japan’s northern Tohoku region. Its spirit can be felt in its hundreds of natural hot springs, grand temples, shrines and charming towns that have risen up around them.
With attractions in each season, Yamagata is an attractive destination throughout the year. In fall, its many mountains reflect the soft yet stunning colours of autumn. In winter, one can ski or snowboard among the unique “Snow Monster” formations in the Zao area. A truly unique experience.
If you’re interested in Japan’s traditional religions, Yamagata is the ideal destination, with its unique local culture of “yamabushi”, Japan’s ancient tradition of mountain aesthetics. Climbing up to one of its magnificent mountain temples is a spiritual trial all its own, and serious pilgrims can challenge all of the Dewa Sanzan or the Three Holy Peaks.
Yamagata is also the only prefecture in Japan to have received its very own Geographical Indication for nihonshu. Attestation for the incredible quality, flavour and uniqueness of the region’s sake.
Erika Haigh, the owner of Moto, the UK’s first independent sake bar and shop, said:
An entry-level sake I would love to recommend is one called Kujira Junmai Ginjo made by Chiyo Brewery in the historic Nara prefecture. It almost feels as if this sake was made especially for the European market considering how similar it is to the experience of drinking white wine – it has the crisp yet fruity nature of a Sauvignon Blanc as well as the minerality of an Albarino (which makes it perfect for summer. It’s a great match with seafood, especially oysters!
Given how people here in the U.K. are more accustomed to drinking white wines, this sake will not seem so foreign to them and that is probably why it has been going down so well, and why it is the ideal entry-level sake. The brewery’s CEO, Mr. Tetsuya Sakai, comes from a winemaking background, which explains this sake’s wine-like nature!
Justin Potts of the Sake on Air podcast recommends the Mukyu Tenon junmai ginjo kimoto:
Tenon sake tends to strike with the most aggressive subtlety you can imagine. The Mukyu Tenon label, even more so. While pleasant on first contact, it’s after a glass (or tokkuri) or two that you realise you’ve been the unknowing recipient of a gentle massage on your soul. Once that registers with the receptors, you arrive at a place you (thankfully) can’t return from.
Don’t let the ginjo deceive you. Sure, there’s some subtle fruit tucked away in there, but make no mistake, this sake is a kimoto at heart. Think shiitake and a hint of cream and you’ll be getting close. At about 13% ABV, this sake goes down easy lightly chilled, straight off the counter at ambient temperature, or hovering a bit over body temperature. You can play the entire field without fear of failure, and what’s more, this sake will only further develop complexity and nuance over time; either sealed, or after opening.
Not only is this sake a gentle way to ease into the category with, it’s also one you’ll likely be happy to come home to in the years to come.
Books for budding nihonshu nerds
Sake Confidential by John Gauntner (The first book I read when I got serious about sake and it changed my life).
The Complete Guide To Japanese Drinks by Stephen Lyman (Has a lot of great information on sake, shochu, awamori, Japanese whisky etc).
The Japanese Sake Bible by Brian Ashcraft (Buy this book. That’s all you need to know).
Hope you’ve learned a bit more about Japan’s national drink and would love to know your thoughts on sake generally. Hit me up with a reply and we can totally geek out.
Best,
Jamie
P.S If you’d no longer like to receive emails like this then all you’ve got to do is hit unsubscribe below and we’ll raise the parting glass to each us and be on our separate ways.
P.P.S I’m looking to connect with more brands in the Japan space. If you know anyone who needs content marketing or copywriting support in this field then point ‘em my way.