Premium is word that comes up a lot in every drink category and the sake world is no exception.
The simple truth is that all sake is great sake, but when getting started it’s useful to have an easy introduction whenever you see a bottle on the menu.
Whenever you see the words ginjo or daiginjo you’re going to be in safe hands. Both styles are considered to be at the higher end and taste profiles range between floral and light to sweet and clean.
Here’s a few of my favourite ginjo and daiginjo bottles to check out.
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Hinomaru Bekkaku Daiginjo
Daiginjo is a phrase that’s associated with high-quality craftsmanship and daigingjo sake is often positioned at the top because of the high rice polishing rate that goes into its production.
In the case of Bekkaku daiginjo, the association with exceptional sake is spot on.
Elegant, smooth and enchanting, the Bekkaku daiginjo is nihonshu fit for royalty.
Background
Bekakku is produced by Hinomaru Jozo based in Masudamachi in Yokote City in Akita Prefecture. The brewery has a rich history that dates back to 1689 and carries the blessing of the ancient Japanese warlords of the feudal era. The Satake clan gave the brewery the right to use the name hinomaru, the witch hazel flower that sprouts through snow and signals the coming of Spring.
The Satake clan also bestowed their famous Japanese folding fan symbol that opens to show the bright red sun. This proved to be an auspicious blessing, as the rising sun image was adopted as the official symbol for Japan’s national flag in 1870.
Bekakku is the embodiment of Hinomaru’s dedication to excellence. The sake is produced from Yamadanishiki rice, yeast, koji and water sourced from the subterranean wells of the Kurikoma Mountain range.
The rice is polished to an extremely fine 38% and the sake is matured for two years in the bottle at low temperatures.
Another fun fact is that Bekakku has the distinction of being the only sake served at Emperor Naruhito’s reception on May 1st 2019 to commemorate the Reiwa era.
Tasting notes
The Bekakku has all the qualities of what makes daiginjo so good to drink. Aromatic, light, floral and sessionable. Drilling down into the flavour profile, the first thing I noted was a fresh lemon scent in the glass that expanded into plum and banana notes.
A pleasant, spicy undercurrent moved through the mouth. Pepper and oregano balanced with sweeter flavours of cream and peach. There was an unexpected dryness in the aftertaste that acted as a palate cleanser.
I’d recommend drinking the Bekakku chilled and can see it pairing well with a platter of cheese and bruschetta. The gentle acidity makes for an awesome tag team with the savoury qualities of the cheese and meat.
ABV: 16%
Grade: Daiginjo
Seimaibuai/Rice Polishing Rate: 38%
Rice: Yamadanishiki
Dassai 45
Dassai sake, produced by the Asahi Brewery of Yamaguchi Prefecture, has earned a reputation for being one of the best types of nihonshu on the market.
Background
The story of the Dassai 45 is a continuation of the evolution of the Asashi brewery. Previously labelled as Dassai 50, the brewery decided to introduce an extra 5% polishing in 2019 to enhance the quality of the sake and reinvent themselves.
Tasting notes
Dassai 45 carries the typical fruity aromas of junmai daiginjo. My first thought on tasting the drink was ‘this reminds me of the best qualities of a white wine.’ Smooth and airy, the 45 is so easy to drink.
Notes of apple, orange and pear dance on the tongue, unfurling into a graceful bouquet of mellow fruitiness. This is complemented by a crisp, dry undercurrent that’s referred to as tanrei karakuchi in Japanese.
Another great aspect of the Dassai 45 is its versatility with food.
For a main course, I paired it with salmon and rice and it provided a clean aftertaste with the fish. For dessert, I paired it with banana bread infused with blueberries and the fruity qualities became even more enjoyable.
Of the Dassai range, I’d say the 45 is the most suitable sake for someone who’s never tried junmai daiginjo. Its overall gentleness means you’ll have finished your first glass before you know it and you’ll soon be reaching for the second.
ABV: 16%
Grade: Junmai daiginjo
Seimaibuai/Rich Polishing Rate: 45%
Rice: Yamadanishiki
Katsuyama Ken
Background
Created by the Katsuyama brewery in Miyagi, this type of sake comes from a place that values tradition.
Established in 1688, the Katsuyama brewery was set up to serve the feudal lords of the Sendai Domain, which was founded by the famous samurai and general, Date Masamune.
For over four hundred years, the brewery has carried on the tradition of producing lord-worthy sake for people all over the world.
Falling into the junmai ginjo grade, the Katsuyama Ken can be considered a premium sake and drinking it made me picture what it would be like to knock some booze back with the samurai lords of old.
Tasting notes
A clean, fruity aroma emanates from the bottle. The fruitiness carried on in the first sip and was soon joined by a dry sensation that gathers on the palate. The Katsuyama Ken possesses a rich flavour that unfurls into a bouquet of sweetness. Interestingly, the drink also has a woody undercurrent that is similar to a fine Japanese whisky.
The mixture of flavours makes this sake suitable for a range of meals. I paired it with a spicy jackfruit and paneer curry, but I could see it working with fish and meat dishes as well. I’d recommend drinking it chilled to truly appreciate the dry and rich elements.
In summary, the Katsuyama Ken is a delightful, all-rounder kind of sake. By the time you’ve drank the whole bottle you’ll be feeling like a lord yourself.
ABV: 16%
Grade: Junmai Ginjo
Seimaibuai/Rich Polishing Rate: 50%
Rice: Yamadanishiki
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