Dear Drink To That reader,
Japan holds a long tradition of producing high-quality drinks, with the people having a knack for putting their own spin on an established technique and perfecting it. This was the case for whisky and it’s happening with rum as well. Japanese rum is gradually becoming its own distinctive category, with the likes of Nine Leaves and Iejima leading the charge.
Another distillery that’s making waves is the Grace Distillery, personified by the Cor Cor brand. I’d turned it into a mission to get my hands on at least one of the bottles and I was successful with the purchase of Cor Cor Red.
Let’s examine what makes this rum stand out.
Brand Story
Founded in 2004 by Yuko Kinjo, the Grace Distillery is located on the island of Minamidaito in Okinawa. The islands of Okinawa are synonymous with producing awamori, so venturing into the rum category was an intriguing step towards bringing more attention to the region.
Kinjo was focused on showcasing the natural ingredients of Minamidaito, which is why the rum has been produced from local sugarcane. Interestingly, sugarcane is the main product of the island, having been grown there since 1903.
The growth of the sugarcane is a partnership between herself and the Minamidaito Island Chamber of Commerce. Production is limited to once a year in order to preserve the crop in an environment that is prone to typhoons and extreme weather.
Craftsmanship
Cor Cor Red is a molasses-based, white rum distilled to show the local character of Minamidaito. Bottled at 40% ABV, the rum is beautifully packaged, with a poem on the label that tells the story of the island and its connection to spirits.
Bats, dancing in the night sky
Suspended magic, falling in drops
These are the things
That make men and women covet love
This is the magic of rum
A sugarcane love potion
Tasting notes
Cor Cor Red is intriguing from the moment the top comes off. The scent of rubber, black pepper and liquorice fill the air, transforming into a tropical aroma of peach, apple and banana. In the mouth, herbal notes become dominant. Mushroom, green pepper, rye bread, anise. After a couple of sips, there’s the unmistakable flavours of grapefruit and watermelon.
Drinking Cor Cor Red is like inhaling a tropical forest and then drinking it in one step at a time. There’s multiple layers that don’t always reveal themselves right away, a characteristic of Japanese rum that I appreciate. Cor Cor Red has a quiet dignity about it, unfolding gently and smoothly and actually reminded me of a lighter version of Rhum JM Blanc.
ABV: 40%
Origin: Okinawa
Variety: Molasses
Nose: Rubber, black pepper, peach, apple
Mouthfeel: Mushroom, rye bread, grapefruit, watermelon
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Santa Maria
Background
Produced in Okinawa on Ie Island by the Iejima brewery, Santa Maria gold is an agricole rum made from sugar cane. What’s fascinating about this rum is that it’s aged in Nikka whisky oak barrels for two to three years, giving it an elegant smoothness and light finish.
The Ieijma Distillery formerly produced awamori and stepped beyond the world of Japanese spirits to be more experimental.
Ie Island is rich in sugarcane and has been cultivated since 1630. The distillery’s ethos is to mix traditional Japanese distillation techniques with a respect for the environment, intervening as little as possible in the steps before distillation i.e. not refrigerating any fermentation tanks.
Tasting notes
There’s a pleasant woody scent that enters the nose and becomes stronger on the first sip. Delectable notes of peach and pineapple sweep it, transitioning into a subtle spiciness. Flavours of cocoa and pepper build steadily without overpowering the fruitiness.
As the rum has been aged in Nikki barrels, there’s an underlying whisky quality that lingers in the aftertaste. It reminded me of the sweet burn of Nikka Coffey grain.
The Santa Maria gold is the kind of drink that opens a gateway into the world of Japanese rum and all its intricacies. Light, gentle and so easy to drink, it embodies the nature of Japan in that it doesn’t have to be loud and punchy to be memorable.
ABV: 37%
Origin: Okinawa
Variety: Rhum Agricole
Style: Gold
Nose: Banana, pineapple, lychee
Mouthfeel: Pear, apple, cocoa, chili pepper, caramel